Department: Pubs

The Lexington

 

Mes amis,

I have nothing but admiration for my British friends, who, unlike my own people, value their monarch. I must confess, though, that during the Royal Wedding festivities their hysteria proved too much. I found myself siding with that tiny minority of the population who have become weary of Germans masquerading as royalty, and began to think that if I hadn’t been born the whitest of White Russian émigrés, I probably would have made a good bolshevik.

How lucky, then, that on the day in question my old chum Vic Godard invited me to get away from it all and see him and his chamber orchestra perform some classic pieces in the plush surroundings of the Lexington.

Located in the suburbs near King’s Cross, this music pub is the perfect hide-away for the staunch Republican – it is as un-British as Foghorn Leghorn in Stetson and spurs. Downstairs, the designers of the aptly named saloon bar have borrowed heavily from the cat-houses of the Old South but, sadly, stopped short of providing the belles.

The Lexington’s extensive drinks menu cites Abraham Lincoln’s famous tribute to beer brewing, surely his finest sentiment after the abolition of slavery (how disappointing, mes amis, that 150 years on his nation hasn’t quite got to grips with either notion). Be that as it may, the presence of 14 American ‘ales’ is more than compensated for by a fine selection of over 40 Bourbons, some (like the Weller 19-year-old at £55 a shot) so rare that even your favourite Romanoff had to take note (and double-check his credit status).

A short but distinguished cocktail list sticks to stateside favourites such as the Mint Julep and Old Fashioned (not available at busy times due to its truly old-fashioned 12-minute preparation time). Their above-average quality and alcohol content quickly wiped the £8 price tag from the slate of my memory.

The real revelation, however, is the upstairs music venue whose gritty honesty harks back to London’s musical heyday when combos like Department S and Subway Sect plucked their harmonies in front of an enraptured audience – as, indeed, they did on that memorable occasion (Fuck The Royal Wedding – A Night of Treason).

Similar musical titbits can be sampled on a weekly basis, alongside a fine-sounding discotheque downstairs. Further highlights are Sunday’s ‘Hangover Lounge’ (an essential service that should be available on the NHS) and a ‘Rough Trade’ pop quiz on Tuesdays.  Add a spectacular 2.00am closing time on weekdays (extending to a sight-blurring 4.00am at weekends) and this extraordinary pub has gathered enough qualities to truly soften my feelings towards our old cold-war playmates.

I, for one, am sure to become a Lexington regular.

Yours as ever

Max Obolensky

The Lexington
96-98 Pentonville Road
London, N1 9JB
Tel: 020 7837 5371
Nearest Underground: King’s Cross St Pancras, Angel
Opening times: Mon – Thu 3pm – 2am, Fri & Sat 3pm – 4am, Sun 1pm – 12 midnight.

 

 

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The Toucan

 

Céad Mile Failte, my friends!

“Oh, while a man may dream awake, on gentle Irish ground…”

Having lived in exile for many years, I feel a deep affinity with my homesick Irish chums, who, in London’s concrete desert, must feel like fish out of water.

Indeed, a man can suffer a fate worse than homesickness – thirst. But just when the outline of an Irish inn hovers on the polluted horizon, the wanderer’s delirious senses are tasked with telling the mirage of the Irish theme pub from the true green oasis.

Worry not, my friends – you can trust your stout-seeking instincts. The Toucan, just off Soho Square, is a genuine (if a little murky) Irish watering hole. Alas, long gone are the days when my old friend, legendary landlord Buzz, entertained his thirsty flock behind drawn curtains until daybreak – when an enforcement officer with the zeal of the Black & Tans violated this innocent haven twice in quick succession, Buzz was banned from the premises and reduced to deliver beer kegs to the edge of his own door step.

These days, under landlord Colin, the opening hours are more conservative but the venue has lost none of its rugged charm (of which, I should add, none is more rugged than the toilets’). Venture into the tiny cellar bar and you will still discover the three things that make the honorary Irishman’s eyes (and mouth) water – Guinness, oysters, and whiskey.

Guinness, or as the Reverend Iain Paisley has it, the devil’s buttermilk, flows from eight taps at above average quality, and price (£4). Should you also have the proverbial luck to obtain a portion of the rapidly sold-out Galway oysters, a celebration really is in order.

For this purpose, the pub commands one of the finest collections of rare Irish Whiskeys this side of the Grand Union Canal. Whether you fancy a little of the old Connemara Peated, a Limerick Slaney or even some Knappogue Castle, Colin will happily oblige.

For an even more special occasion, better-to-do connoisseurs may try to impress their paramour by ordering a ‘very rare’. But hold your horses (advice that also applies in the whiskey-induced throes of passion, my friends!) – a single measure of the 42-year-old Tullamore Cadenhead will pilfer a hefty £50 out of the cavalier’s hedge fund, with no hope of a European bail-out.

Finally, for fans of rare rock music, the Toucan offers an attraction far beyond the fleeting charms of liquor: In 1966, at an impromptu performance in the downstairs bar (then called “Knuckles”), the undisputed King of Rock’n’Roll made his London debut – Jimi Hendrix.

Slainte, my friends

Your

Max Obolensky

The Toucan
19 Carlisle Street
(off Soho Square)
London WID 3BY
Tel : 020 7437 4123
Opening hours : Monday – Saturday 11am – 11pm
Nearest Underground : Tottenham Court Road

 

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